About Greece and Pelion

Fishing boats of Kotes on the Pelion Peninsula

~ Greece ~


When you talk of Greece, people immediately think of the Islands. To me nothing compares with the magic of the  Pelion Peninsula and the Sporades Island of ALONISSOS.  Look on a map of Greece, you will see a similar shape piece of land to the Boot of Italy, to the West of the famous 5 fingers, opposite the island of Skiathos with its charter airport. Athens is North West and Thesaloniki, North East. Both airports have flights from the UK and it takes about 4 hours by taxi to reach a world that has hardly moved since the 1950ies..

In the late eighties, I heard about  little jewel in the Greek waters. Typically  was “discovered” by an Englishman, married to a Greek lady, who had just started a Villa rental business.

Sue, my then business partner, went on a recce to  Pelion and came back with the deeds to a little stone house in the village of Lafkos. The next summer, I came, I saw and I fell in love. Having lived on the Cote d’Azur since 1963, it was so refreshing to find villages lost in time. Natural deserted beaches, clear water, no marinas, no high rises, no hotels, just lovely old stone houses, a fair collection of neo-classical buildings, tavernas on the Plateaus, with enormous plane trees, tavernas at the water’s edge, little village shops selling everything Greek, and a few telephones. The main roads between villages were very narrow but had hard surfaces, only dirt tracks led down to the sea and into the hills. Roads were frequently congested with goats, as they are to this day. Old folk are still dressed in black, the Orthodox priests go about their business, giving services in local churches and sometimes out of way monasteries.

A derelict monestary along the Pelion Peninsula

The picture post-card and calendar of Pelion

Pelion has kept its charm for two reasons. For the international tourist, it is not very easy to get to and secondly, the long war in Yugoslavia kept the Northern Europeans, frequent visitors before the hostilities, from driving down.The beauty lies in the choice of places to explore, either on foot or by car, and the gorgeous beaches from which to swim. Depending on the wind, you choose either the Pagasit Gulf side with its olive trees growing down to the water facing west, or the Aegean sea with its chestnut trees and more sophisticated old houses with slate roofs, fashionable with the Athenians for more than 100 years. The village of Damouchari, is now more on the tourist route as a few scenes from the film “Mama Mia” were shot in the charming bay. In the winter, the snow can reach Lafkos, and ski resorts do a good business up towards Mount Pelion.
Pelion is really more Ottoman than Greek, as the sultan gave this lovely area to his wife, as the legend goes. Of course there are stories of Gods and Goddesses, heroic war stories from WW2, churches camouflaged from the Nazis that have recently been discovered.

Milina Village, Pelion, Greece (photo: FCapos)

Old trains now running again for the tourists at week-ends and the food very much improved in the last few years. Those interested in Neolithic culture are spoilt for choice.

Olive Bay Beach and Restaurant (photo FC)

The nearest Airport is the new Airport of Central Greece in Vólos– the capital of Magnesia and is attracting regional airlines from Italy, Germany, Belgium and the UK. This is just over an hour’s drive to Milina, Lafkos and Argalasti the main villages in the unspoilt south of the peninsula. Most international travelers fly to Athens or Thessaloniki or Salonica to some. The downside – a 4 hour drive to Pelion.A  modern, luxurious ferry leaves Ancona – Italy every day in the summer for Igoumenista, quite close to the Meteora Monasteries, and Patras close to Delphi. A 3 to 4 hour drive should take you to Vólos. The ferry journey, more like a cruise with all its trappings, pool, gambling, TV.s, restaurants, bar, duty free shop, plenty of deck space for sunbathing, and takes about 22 hours passing off the coast of Albania and the island of Corfu.

Where to stay:

 On the sea – In Horton, near Milina, the charming “Diplomats” is owned and run by Maria. These are apartments with hotel service. Anna cooks delicious Greek food for restaurant guests. There is a lovely pool area in the gardens and a super little beach right in front.
The village of Horto, is a few minutes walk along the sea.

Up above Milina , in breezy Lafkos,Sue is finally hoping to open her Traditional Pelion Style hotel in July/August.Overooking the breath taking Pagasitikos gulf, Lagou Raki Country hotel has a great  pool area, a tennis court,  a library, restaurant, bar, gardens and garage.  There are 20 rooms including suites, with views to ‘die for’. The hotel is a short walk from the Plateia of Lafkos, considered the most beautiful in the region with wonderful old plane trees, a church, a good choice of tavernas and usually Greek dancing at the week-ends

Lagou Raki Hotel Balcony (photo: CL)